The plan had been going really well. I had recce’ roughly 2/3 of the Spine Challenger South course. I had completed lots of long, long runs. I had started getting the kit nailed, fitness was improving, and I was excited for the last recce then a training race before Christmas. Annoyingly things took a pause, with a little health issue though that needed an operation, so I decided to slot this in hoping (as I was told) that it would be a super quick recovery. Alas I think I either misheard or was misled as the down time turned in to 2 weeks, then some issues with a calf and hamstring in the week before what would be my big, big run, the Tour De Helvellyn.
I picked this race earlier in the year after a strong recommendation from my friend Angela. It’s a low-key event with around 200 people. Un marked course, pretty much self-sufficient (apart from water and a couple of small snacks), no medal and great atmosphere. There isn’t even a gpx file. The company that runs its just gives you some map grid ref points and you are left to plot your own route. It is a fairly straight forward route but with a couple of options depending on how you feel. The idea being that to enter this you should have significant skills to map read and be safe on the fells. The course works out about 62km with 2500m of ups and downs. You never actually go up Helvellyn but round it and the route looks like a lollipop (like Grand Tour of Skiddaw). You have 3 main CPs for water and some other safety check-in points along route. You are also given a GPS tracker, so you know they are keeping an eye on you at HQ. The other unique thing about this event is it has a rolling start. You can begin your tour anywhere between 7 & 9.30am, BUT the first CP isnt open until 9.30am and is about 18km in, so if you are fast, you start a bit later. You also have a decent amount of time to finish, with that last CP closing at 16:30, and once you are through there, no one DNFs. Sounds fun right?
The weather can be anything and everything, last year they had to do a shortened out and back as it was just too icy for it to be safe on the remote parts, this year I was hoping for a little snow but also wanting to do the full distance. Alas the weather forecast was just strong winds, a bit of rain and classic clagg. Not too strong to make it dangerous, we do go up to 700m, so I was glad we could run the full route. I was also going to run the route with pretty much full spine kit in my bag. To get an idea of weight over a longer distance. I had run some marathon distance long runs with it but this would be a good test on tough terrain. Also, I wanted to test out nutrition again after the enforced operation break. I packed some cheese and pickle rolls, chews, Soreen, jelly babies and a couple of gels.
The night before the race I had a shared room with Angela right next to the start/finish in Askham, which made those logistics super easy. I didn’t sleep particularly well though, I woke up not feeling rested. Maybe it was some pre-race nerves, who knows as the bed was super comfy.
In the hall, AKA “faffing” area, I was given a tag, which has a chip in for the start and finish. You are also assigned a number too. This is instead of a bib. I like this idea as its low wastage as they take them back off you when you finish. When you are finished faffing you can go into kit check. I was asked to show head torch, WP top and bottom, map/compass and survival bag. You then get your track put on and exit out the door. At this point you can get your watch started up before going past the start line/chip tag point. Then that’s it, you’re in the race.
Now, I did all the kit stuff with Angela, her friend Sara (who I met at dinner the previous night) and Marie (from IG long chats) and her husband Adrian. There were no plans to run together but I think we were just going to all start around the same time, which was about 7.40 by then. That was until my watch threw a right hissy fit!
I was trying to load the route onto my Garmin and it just kept locking up and crashing. I told the others to get started, while I stressed out. I as on my 3rd reboot and thinking, oh joy. I guess I might have to use OS on my phone or my Garmin handheld GPS (you need one for the spine). After the 4th reboot, I just got a GPS lock and said, screw it, I am going to go and follow someone and just deal with the nav. I started it up, crossed the start then headed out and for some reason or miracle, the watch loaded the route on its own. I was now 20mins behind my friends but relieved to have to not use the backups. I am glad I have them but it’s much easier on the watch.
The first 10km as such is quite pleasant. You go up slowly on some pretty easy trails, then down a bit and onto some of the Lakeland 50/100 route on the side of Ullswater. It’s a bit rocky in places but not too bad. I started in maybe too many layers but hey, it is what it is. I had a tee, long sleeve warm dart and a wind proof on top, with winter leggings on the bottom. Again, maybe over kill but I wanted to try this kit out. I soon got to a point where you can choose route really. Road or trail. I elected for trail because I wanted the underfoot conditions (road is faster if racing), Antonio passed me a touch before this, he was flying but was happy to stop for a quick photo (I wouldn’t see him again until the finish).
After the first safety point it was then a road/path down a valley (Boredale) which was leading the first major climb of the route. Poles were definitely needed for this one for me! I also stopped to swap the wind proof for rain jacket as it looked like the rain was coming in off the top of the climb. As I headed up, I caught sight of Angela near the top, I guess I made up some time on this section, maybe I ran too quick though! After a little boulder climb up on to the pass, we were hit by strong wind, not quite blow you over but a head wind that really slowed me down. It was nice up there even so and once the run down started, things flowed again. On that descent I caught up with Marie and Adrian, which was lovely. We had a little chat on the way down to the actual CP. I topped up my water and Electrolytes. I noticed had been drinking more than I thought I would but maybe I should have drunk a bit more at the CP before heading out. Something that I often forget to do! This CP has a toilet also, which I used quickly before catching up with Angela and Sara as they left. We had a nice chat along the road section at Patterdale before I seemed to just run on. I would see them both many times during the rest of the race, which was lovely.
Next up was the climb up to Stix pass, the biggest of the climbs. But first we were serenaded by a local hero and his accordion, dressed in Christmas attire! This climb up is about 600m I think but what I didn’t realise is its broken up in two sections. The first is steep switch backs, where some runners just went the direct route straight up. I followed one for a bit but soon realised this wasn’t for me, so jumped on the switch backs. Much happier! Once that section is done, you then cross a little bridge (another safety point) before winding down another dead end valley below White Stones and up to the pass its self. Once up, again it was fairly windy and full of Clagg. I was getting quite hungry now, I knew the next CP was at the bottom of the descent, but I didn’t realise how yucky that run down would be. My legs are just not used to the rocks again. This is only my 2nd trip up in 2023, so I took it quite slowly. I think I should have eaten something else before heading down. Either I caught up with Marie and Adrian or they caught up with me but I remember all I was thinking about was my cheese and pickle roll! Once at the car park, I had a sit down devoured said roll, much to everyone’s amusement. Note, this CP also has toilets, and I should definitely have used them, I would pay for this later! Not in the way you might think.
Refuelled and happy I headed out on my own, I knew this next section on an undulating fire road that runs along the bottom of the Helvellyn massif. I got chatting to a Scottish guy, who’s name I cant remember, which was a good distraction from the boredom (the only bit of the route I didn’t really like). I knew what was coming though, the rocky climb up to Griesdale Tarn!
You have an option here on route as you must wise cross a wide stream, where you do it is up to you. Luckily, I found a couple of other runners who seemed to know the good spot. Was happy for the waterproof boots shoes again at this point and made it safely across. Now the climb up was just horrible and the less said about my little hissy fit on that, the better. It’s not even that bad of a climb I just got a bit grumpy. Adrian and Marie passed me. Even John Bamber dressed as Santa, taking photos couldn’t cheer me up. I was very relieved to see the tarn but, boy did the wind pick up! The boggy run along the tarn side was tiring and being battered by the funnel wind didn’t help. Then trying to get down was a little tricky on the rocks and I nearly got blown over a couple of times. I was trying to be safe and not get injured for my goal race, I took it steady. Once on the more runnable part, I then caught back up with Marie and Adrian. We’d now pretty much stay together until the finish.
The banter was good, this was the end of an epic year for Maria and Adrian was training for some crazy ass Back yard Ultra, marathon style in the new year. Where instead of the classic distance, you must run a marathon every 8 hours! Madness, I say. Anyway, we had all kinds of conversations over the next few hours, ranging from our anger at UTMB/Ironman to Sex lube on feet. Love trail running.
We were soon back at the CP in Patterdale (side farm) again. This time I had a bit of banana before we headed back up the last main climb of the race. Heading back on the Lollipop stick. We made good time going up though and felt a bit more energised. Think my fuelling was back on point. Poles were put away for the steep rocky start to the descent. We were glad to be doing this in the fading light though. Before we knew it, we were back on the farm road out of the valley. I suggested we take the road route in the next section instead of the trail and they both agreed to come with me. It was a wise choice, as we trotted down the steep tarmac! We were soon back on the trails heading up the slow rocky path by Ullswater again. Running when we could walk a fair bit too. It was nice to have a bit of time using the head torch as well, it’s been a while since I have been on that terrain in the dark.
Once at the top, I needed to stop for a wee, but Marie said she was getting a bit cold so wanted to run on. It was no bother, not too far to the finish now. But just a few mins later they came back down the path, said they missed a turn on their route. Mine had me going straight on, so, we just followed our own watches. The rocks soon went away, and it was back to the grass trails of the start. I knew we would have a nice run down from now, so I picked it up a bit enjoying the moment, knowing I’d soon have a sit down in the hall. Then I noticed 3 or 4 head torched coming in from the right. I guessed it was Adrian and Marie plus some others. I had a cheeky race to the gate; I don’t think they were racing but what the hell. I got there first then held open for them all.
Then it was just a simple run on the road to the low-key finish in the village, which I had left around 10 hours earlier. We fit pumped/high fived after crossing the line, then went in to get our tracker taken off, tag’s returned, grab a mug and free beer if you wanted. But what I really wanted was the famous soup! We found some seats, grabbed some bowls and tucked in. Angela and Sara were just a few minutes behind. Angela got a course PB, which she was super chuffed about. Antonio came over to say hi too. What lovely vibes the hall had post-race. Job done.
I set out to use this as a training race and it did just that for me. Feet wise, it wasn’t too wet, so I wore merino socks and only had one teeny blister. The main error I did made was, the humidity caused some quite uncomfortable ass chaff, which I knew was coming on at the 2nd CP and should have delt with then. But I didn’t and paid for it in the shower! Otherwise, I came away pretty unscathed, leges were a little sore, as to be expected but nothing major. The kit all seemed to work fine. I just need to keep an eye on the eating, classic error.
Race wise, I loved everything about it. Challenging course, super organisation, amazing safety team and volunteers. A great no frills race, which is challenging, and you know it will be different every year. We got very lucky with the weather. I kind of wish it was a bit colder tbh but you can’t have it all. I would 10/10 go another Nav 4 race again. Here is the info for entering, if you fancy it! https://www.nav4.co.uk/tour-de-helvellyn
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